Monday, October 15, 2007

trekking, mummies, Lima and luxury

Ay up

Well, since the delights of Machu Picchu we have maintained a fairly steady flow of activity. We spent another three or four nights in Cusco and would have stayed longer but it was bleeding us dry financially. It is so expensive compared to anywhere else we have been and money was just disappearing at an alarming rate. So it was time to move on and Arequipa was to be our next destination. We took another night bus, only 9 hours long, not too bad by south american standards and arrived in the ´white city´ bright and breezy at 6.30 am. We have some friends who arrived here the night before us and told us of a cool hostel so we headed there and sure enough it was a nice place although more importantly for us, it was cheap. Arequipa itself is a fairly nice place, the centre is at least, which is dominated by a massive cathedral as well as a monestry. Its become quite clear to us on our travels that neither type of building holds much appeal to either of us. It seems every place we have been to has had an ummissable church or catedral that we simply must see, but we havent been in any yet and i can´t really see that changing any time soon. Maybe we´re just abit spoilt by them all.

What we did see tho was a frozen mummy named Juanita. She was discvered frozen in a recently extinct volcano in the early 90´s. It seems she was a Inca sacrifice 500 odd years ago, and the freexing temperatures had preserved her body. The museum itself that housed her was fairly interesting, just displaying other sacrificial pots and things that were beside her, but Juanita herself was really cool to see. She was in a glass case and is still largely covered in ice but you can clearly see her skin and what have you. She was very intriguing, i could have sat and looked at her for ages.

Anyhow, i was eventully dragged away in order organise a trip for the Colca del Canyon, which was our main reason for coming to Arequipa. The canyon itself is pretty much just as it sounds, just a big canyon, (ive no idea how it compares in size to the grand canyon), but apparently its pretty big. We decided upon a three day trek where you basically walk into the canyon on the first day. Walk about abit on the second and then walk / climb out on the third.

Day1

It was a bit of an early start, 1am, to be precise, followed by a five hour bus journey to a supposedly prime viewing spot for condors. We, being myself and Maya as well as our new friends Shaun and Maria and our guide Pepe, arrived there at about six am and waited until about 10am, but saw nothing in the way of condors. Would have been nice obviously but we weren´t too upset.

From there it was another 30mins or so on the bus to our starting point, a small town called cabanaconder, (I think). The firstday was supposed to be fairly steady although proved to fairly challenging. It consisted of a 1300m walk down to the floor of the canyon. The walk was steep and the surface was so dusty it was like walking on a beach at times. Once we reached the canyon floor it was a another couple of hours walking to our first nights accommodation which turned out to be an amazing bamboo hut type place which was situated at the meeting point of three valleys. The hostel was alone and as well as a cool hut for a bedroom it also had the delights of two hot springs to relax in. I can think of no better way to nurse tired feet than relaxing in a natural hot spring with a cold beer surrounded by incredible scenery. Quite a treat can tell you.

Day2

On day two we had to walk back to the top of the canyon, along its edge for a while and then back down to the base again to a place aptly named Paradise. It was another bamboo hut type place with its on swimming pool and what have you, out on its own in the middle of nowhere. Once again it was quite spectacular and ample reward. At night we managed to get some beer and rum and had a nice evening soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying the alcohol.

Day 3

The day began early once again, 4.30am to be precise, and it wasn´t a friendly start as the final stretchto walk was back up 1300m out of the canyon. Itwas hard going, the path was pretty much straight up and little else, but we managed it two hours and even overtook some people who left thecamp at three am.

I really enjoyed the trekking once again. Its nice to be doing exercise and feeling pretty fit. I´m thinking of finding a mountain over 6000metres and tackling it as my next challenge. There is one in Arequipa, Misti, but i was abit short on time, but hopefully soon i will find one to conquer.

The canyon itself was pretty cool, but what made the trip for was the accommodation and the company we shared. We had a good laugh on our way around and made sure we had a giggle to pass the nights away.

After the trek we arrived back in Arequipa pretty knackered but were soon to be rewarded as myself and Maya treated ourselves to a lovely luxury hotel for the night to celebrate our two year anniversary. Such luxury was very welcome.

The following day we packed our bags, and fled for the capital, Lima, which to be fair, has been better than expected so far. We arrived on Saturday and promptly found an english pub to watch the rugby. We made some new friends then ended up back at the hostel playing drinking games with put and take. Was a very drunken night and consequently Sunday was something of a write off.

Today we have done culture and low and behold we even stepped inside a cathedral. Not sure why. I didn´t really like it. Too much decadence and grotesque wealth for my liking. (ooohh get you i hear you all saying). After that we went into a monestery also, which was more of the same, apart from a really creepy crypty which is full of bones, which are on show in organised trough type things. Very bizarre but the best thing i saw today.

I think we will be here for another couple of nights before we head off to the north of Peru and probably find our way to Ecuador reasonably soon. We´re both ready for a new country now.

I will try to put up some photos soon of the canyon to illustrate my tales. I hope all is well back there.
Rob

No comments: